I started teaching makeup application in the early 80’s. I was living in Canada at the time, working as a Training Manager for Estee Lauder. For those of you who prefer visuals to statistics, we established the first Clinique counter in Western Canada. (Yes, I’m that old.)
30+ years later, having applied makeup on hundreds women of all ages, a few truisms have become apparent. One of the most important lessons in makeup application is that age is a factor. Simply put, you cannot wear the same makeup, in the same way, for your entire life.
We all get into beauty ruts. Routines that have served us well for years, that we’re comfortable with. When you do the same thing over and over for years on end, you naturally get it down to speed-dial status. If you’re cleaning your bathroom, this is good. But makeup suitable for a college student will make even the most beautiful midlifer look 10 years older.
A perfect time for a makeup overhaul is around age 50. After that fabulous birthday bash is over, the bleary-eyed guests have all gone home, and the what-was-I-thinking hangover is blessedly behind us, it’s time to look in the mirror and accept that we are no longer able to pull off this year’s trendy blue eyeshadow or our favorite deep-red lipstick that we’ve worn since we were 30.
Department stores are a great place to test new products and colors, but women are often put off by the aggressive upselling from heavily made-up, commissioned, teenage sales girls. And it can be awkward having your makeup redone by Goth Girl in the middle of the cosmetic department during lunch hour traffic.
So, after three decades in the industry, I thought I’d share a few tips for anyone who might be confused about what works and what doesn’t after 50. We’ll start with what doesn’t. And you don’t even have to get dressed up or leave your house. Slip on your bunny slippers and your comfiest p.j.s, and grab a latte. Here you go.
1. Heavy foundation. Foundation should never be used as Spackle. It’s purpose is simply to smooth the skin tone, not fill in crevices or conceal menopausal acne. If you can’t find one that goes on like a second skin, you need a new skin care routine, not a new foundation.
2. Foundation in the wrong color. I see this one a lot. Women who want to look more tanned get a darker color that doesn’t match the rest of their body, so their face always looks dirty. Too orange, and you look like an oompa-loompa. Too much pink looks chalky. This is where you’ll want to spend a little money and get professional advice. Unfortunately, you won’t find this in stores that end in the word “Mart.”
3. Skipping the blusher. As we age (don’t we hate that expression?), the “bloom of youth” wears off, and we look washed out, less vibrant. Pale skin, lacking any visible blush of color, can make you look cadaver-ish, lacking a healthy pulse or discernible blood flow.
4. Too much concealer. Packing on the concealing stick underneath your eyes, trying to hide puffiness or dark circles, draws attention to this area by settling into expression lines around your eyes like bathtub caulking.
5. Dark lipstick. In your 20s and 30s, dark lipstick can look chic and sophisticated. After 50, it tends to look bitchy. It also picks up yellow in your teeth, so unless they’re piano-keys white, don’t even think about it.
6. Eyeliner around the entire eye. This look is hard to pull off after 30. It’s too Biker Chick (and men hate it, btw). By 50, if you have expression lines or eyelid sagging, this will make you look like Jax’s mother on Sons of Anarchy. Leave the “smoky eyes” to your daughter.
7. Too much bronzer. Simply put, your face should not look like it just spent two weeks in Hawaii without the rest of you.
8. Obvious lip liner. This is the visible panty line (VPL) of the face. Fading lip lines can make the lips look thinner, less “lush” (hence the unfortunate Hollywood stampede of the lip injections). Lip pencils are meant to gently define and fill out the lip lines, not outline them in a way that suggests people might not otherwise know where your mouth is.
9. Nude or no lip color. This is a big one. We lose pigment in our lips as we age, making us look pale or tired (read: older). Whether it’s a peachy-pink Chanel lipstick or a sheer raspberry Chapstick, some color to our lips says that our blood is pumping and we’re ready to leap tall buildings. That’s a lot from bang for a tiny little tube of colored wax.
10. Too much powder. Women who routinely “powdered their nose” during the day in their younger years often still do that when they’re in their 50s. It’s time to stop doing that. Repeated applications of powder on skin that is thinner and drier can result in a dehydrated looking, talc-layered face, with powder settled in every line and wrinkle. Remember Great-Grandma Bertha and her delicate, powdery skin? Yeah, we don’t want that.
11. Too much shimmer. A little fairy dust on young girls or glitter on the tweeners is pretty and sparkly and young. Shimmer says “Look at me!” After 50, on our faces, it says “Look at me, with sparkles in my lines! Can you see them now??” In our hair, it says “Look at me, I’m thinning!” Above our boobs, it yells out “Hey, check it out, I’m way down here now!”
So the next time you go to Macy’s or Nordstrom, find a saleswoman who’s wearing makeup you like and ask her to do yours. It can be fun. And you don’t have to buy a thing if you don’t want to.
But a new lipstick can solve a lot of life’s problems.
I love this Vikki. I know that less is more when we age and that we don’t want to accentuate our wrinkles or crows feet!
That said, my MIL was the one who got me started with Bare Escentuals and I love their powder foundation. I feel naked without a little Bobbie Brown instantly drying eyeliner -which she also introduced me to (I try to use as little as possible) but I can never find good mascara that I like.
I wish I could also find the perfect lipstick to look “natural” while adding a little color. Again BE has my favorite.
Anyway, this post helped me a lot. Ah, aging.
Oh, P.S. my 83 y/o mom wears no makeup and looks so great. Someday I want to look that good without makeup! :-)
Thanks, Cathy! I used to be a BE fan, but my skin is quite dry, so now it looks too heavy. Smashbox makes a fabulous powder foundation similar to the soft matte finish of BE, but finer in texture. But I’m with you. Much prefer soft powder foundations over liquids. They have a prettier finish, and they last longer during the day. And I think we’re all on a lifelong quest for the perfect lipstick! :)
I need a new makeup routine. You’ve inspired me.
Have fun, Tayla! Try something new! :)
So damn true – even at 40. And no woman should be putting glimmer/sparkles on her face. She looks like she worked the stage.
I agree, Alyson! Fairy dust at 10 becomes glitter at 20 and shimmer at 30, then sadly, looks like a retired Rockette at 50! :)
I’ll do Moon Glow eyeshadows from Urban Decay for a big night out. They’re sparkly but not too sparkly.
Moon Dust, not Moon Glow. Derp.
This is not a paid endorsement: “O” by MAC. It looks good on everyone and a little different on everyone. The perfect lipstick.
The other cosmetic key to looking good is the best skin care you can afford.
But I’m no expert I’m just from Texas where eyeliner was a required subject in the eighth grade. (Renee Z said that first)
Laura, Thanks for the tip! I’ll check out the MAC counter next time I hit Nordstrom. (And I’ve got a post coming up about skin care…my other favorite subject!)
I my this is so very true. I see sweet ladies that are my age that are applying ALL or most of the above incorrectly. But then how do you tell these folks they look ridiculous?
Can we talk about hair style and color on some of these sweet ladies. Rarely is natural hair color ALL one color. I know your hair was a beautiful chocolate brown when you were 25 but it looks scary when you are 65.
I agree, Barb, and I could have included that topic, but I hit my 1000-word post limit! Thanks for adding it into the Comments! :)
Vikki, have you tried Benefit’s Fake-up Concealer? The concealer itself is set into a moisturizing stick and I am having good luck with it not settling into my wrinkles.
P.S. LOVED the article.
Thanks, Sarah! I’m going online to check it out now! :)
I appreciate these tips. I have never been one to wear makeup, not sure why, maybe being a tomboy all the way. I do wear mascara, being I have light lashes. But I love these points about getting older. I never thought to wear blusher. But what a good idea. Most days I am a bit pale and that might just boost it for me, being 52. And the light lip color thought. I wear chap stick all the time and recently have noticed my lips are paler than before. I did not realize I had lost pigment. I think I will start using a few of those light pink tints….pink always is at the heart of this tomboy….
Mandy, 52? You’re just a youngster to me (at the ripe old age of 58)! Yes, a little blusher and a new lipstick can make your whole day! :)
And 58 is a magical young lady setting forth…
I wish you were my next door neighbor I need you for a very good afternoon of lessons and wine! I’m to shy to go to that stupid counter where they try to sell you everything under the sun and people walk by and are checking to see if they’ve made you into Bozo the Clown! I grew up with 4 brothers and a Pentacostal mom so no makeup lessons there either. I’ve “winged” it in my 20’s but just stopped wearing it in my 30’s and have only recently started showing an interest in it again but damn it’s so confusing! I want to look nice but not stupid these tips are a great start! I was confused about one part though, are you saying skip the blusher because I have been and I don’t know if it’s right or not. I just do the foundation(the right skin color) and my eyes?
Rena, blusher is key to putting “the bloom” back in your rosy cheeks! A soft, non-glitter, peachy-pink works on virtually everybody. And you can skip the eye make-up before anything else (it’s also where women make the most mistakes). When I’m in a hurry or feeling lazy, I just use a good quality sheer foundation, blusher, lip gloss, and fabulous sunglasses. Less than 60 seconds, and you’re done! :)
Sooooo true! Your way of writing things, Vikki, is total truth, and hilarious!!
Thank you, Ms. Marta! And you’re always there to cheer me on! Love you too. :)
Now that you mention it… Funny that I was just telling my husband over the weekend that I just can’t seem to get down the 50+ makeup application. It’s the whole eyeliner thing I can’t get. I’ve never lined my entire eye, just the lower lid halfway. Now I hear 50+ women are supposed line the upper lid inside… and I just end up poking myself in the eye or having it all over. Will you please come to my house and give me a makeover? Or I could come to you! I’ll bring the wine.
Oh Lisa, I wish! We’d have so much fun! :)
Thank you, Vikki! Timing is everything. Most of the time I wear moisturizer and lipstick. It’s good enough for interacting with my dog and pc. This Friday, if I don’t have a massive anxiety attack, I’m facing the camera for a documentary. I need to look natural (whatever that is). Though I have an arsenal of makeup, I think I’ll make an appointment at Nordstrom. Thank you for all the tips. And, I agree, at “a certain age,” less is more.
Beth, just find someone you like, approximately the same age as you (so she “gets it”) and have fun! You’ll need a little more makeup that day, because the camera will wash you out a little, so be open to something new. And congratulations on your gig!
Thanks, Vikki. Most the people my age are pushing up daisies. HA! Don’t think I’ll ask them. Maybe someone 10 years younger (or immature).
I made an appointment with a make-up expert at Nordstrom on my way to the shoot. Thanks for the suggestion.
Yay! Have fun! :)
Thanks, Vikki. Trying my best to turn this into FUN and a learning experience–not hard labor.
Great post, Vikki! A quick note: I love makeup so much I named my cat Sephora (yes, I’m serious). I spend more money on the stuff than I care to admit, but have found a couple of gems recently that work wonders for us over-50 beauties: Mally makes a de-shiner that’s not a powder and doesn’t build up like one: Evercolor Poreless Face Defender. It’s a product unlike any I’ve ever seen. Also, Lancome’s undereye cream is the first one I’ve tried that really, honestly does not create creases under your eyes. It’s a bit pricey but worth it. Check ’em out! :)
Linda, I, too, am a beauty product junkie! I’m going to try your product recommendations. And I’m loving the fact that you named your cat Sephora! :)
Seriously, I need a 12-step program. But I forgot one more item: Bite’s lip primer. Makes lipstick go on super smooth and non-drying. Love it. :)
Very helpful to know that I am almost good. I have never worn much makeup, just a little blush. And, I haven’t lined my lips in decades and just use a bit of color. The only thing I take issue with is the sparkle. Hadn’t thought about it, but it seems like everyone could use a bit of shimmer and glitter! Thanks for the almost validating read about something I know so little about.
I love this Vikki! Think it’s time to head to the make up counter because I see a few new products in my future. : )
Kirsten, I’m always up for a trip to the makeup counter! Of course, I have to be on a cash-in-an-envelope budget or I’d lose all self-control and have to sell my car to pay the tab! :)
Elaine, I’ve been a glitter girl since my 4-year-old pink tutu days at ballet school, and I still love it. Just not on my face or on my southbound boobs. I do, however, love a little shimmer on my shoulders, esp. in the summer with a slight tan! :)
What great advice! Thanks for sharing!
You’re welcome, Eva! Love that you stopped by! :)
#7 – LOL! Well, next month I hit the big 5-0, so this came just in time. Thanks Vikki!
Well, happy early birthday, Linda! 50 brings with it all kinds of new surprises! :)
I’ve gone the BB Cream route and I love it. It’s light yet still covers. There’s CC cream now but I don’t know the difference. I’ve been known to drop a ton at makeup counters all over the world but I’ve yet to find a mascara better than the drugstore kind. Love Clump Buster from Cover Girl. Still a red lipstick fan but wear very minimal eye makeup when I wear it. No mascara on my bottom lashes…takes away that harsh “I’m an old hooker” look. Wait…is that a bad thing?
Time and place, Kathleen. Time and place. We can rock the old hooker look til we die! :)
any advice for an over 50 with Rosacea?
Hi Gretchen, that’s a medical question and beyond my expertise, but I can offer some tips from my experience in working with women with rosacea (much of which you probably already know). It’s exacerbated by sun, wind, and cold. Protect your face, and use sunscreen every single day. Don’t exfoliate unless your dermatologist says its okay, and then only once a week with a very gentle product. There are some wonderful makeup products available to minimize the visibility, even your skin tone, and reduce the redness. This is not a drugstore item. Go to a store like Nordstrom or Sephora, and ask. You’re looking for something with a yellow base to counteract the red. Powder foundations (i.e. Bare Escentuals and Smashbox) are usually a better choice than liquids (less irritating and require less “handling” of your skin to apply). Hope this helps! :)
Right now, I’ve been slapping a ton of moisturizer and praying but I like your tip about a little blush and lip color!
Came back here because I was in the store this morning trying to remember these tips – so thanks again!